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Experiencing Lucca
Until recently, we had only touched the edges of this wonderful walled city,
bustling with energy and home
of some of the best olive oil --extra, extra virgin, of course--to be found anywhere.
But, Lucca has far more to
offer than just olive oil. This compact city can be explored on foot and at a
leisurely pace. Its Romanesque
churches are splendid. Opera lovers will want to visit Puccini’s birthplace and
childhood home. Once a month,
there is a large antique market. There are intriguing art works hidden in its alley
ways and cobbled streets,
and lovely restaurants featuring fresh vegetables and homemade pasta, delicious seafood
and game.
We stayed at Madonnina, in the western part of the city, close to the walls.
Like all non residents of this very practically run city, most
of which is closed to vehicular traffic, we left our car outside the walls except
for drop-off and collection of luggage. We found Madonnina to be a wonderful
location, but for a city of this small size (the walk around the city on the walls
is only 3 miles) what location is not ideal?
You may want to prepare for some of Lucca’s wonderful restaurants by walking or biking
the wall. There are
several bike rental shops. Even a short walk will allow glimpses of lovely hidden gardens
and cobbled streets.
 One of our favorite restaurants within the city walls is Trattoria Da Leo, a sprawling, noisy
establishment in the center
of the city. The pastas are home made here, the soups are rich with fresh vegetables
and grains and the bread
is wonderful. Like all authentic regional Italian restaurants, the menu is dictated
by the seasons and the abundance
of the area. We tried the faro soup -- made with a barley like grain and variety of
vegetables and herbs, topped
with a dollop of fresh pressed olive oil. The salads are delicious, showing off the
wonderful variety of lettuces
grown locally and the richness of local olive oil. Local red wines are inexpensive and
good. Many Italians still
follow the home custom of mixing the wine with water to accompany a meal. The homey,
friendly banter of
guests and waiters and cook reminded me of those wonderful childhood Sundays, when
company came and
the table was brimming over with the fruits of family endeavors, our own home grown
vegetables, Nonna’s fritta, Mom’s pasta sauce, and gentle red wine served in tumblers with water.
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