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Our trips to Italy always
begin with too-long lists of places to go and things to see and do.
And for some reason, upon returning home, it is always a surprise to
discover that the itinerary was not the journey. The places and
things always provoke introspections and realizations not experienced in the
distractions of home.
 In Italy, history, thousands of years of history is always present. The autostrada follows the ancient Aurelian Roman road; a sacred music choir
fills the thousand year old Cathedral of Pisa with the soaring harmonies of
Bach’s Magnificat; a traditional Lucchese dinner is savored in a two
hundred year old wine cellar. History, the forces that shaped it and
the spirit of the people who made it are ever-present.
A few days ago, we sat in a stone room dating from 1529 at a Tuscan table
laden with the remains of a large and delicious lunch and discussing
politics and the Iraq war. Our Italian hosts quickly tired of this and
turned the conversation to the correct way to prepare fish stew. There were
four Italians all from different parts of Massachusetts-sized Tuscany.
Therefore there were four different methods and four different recipes – all
handed down from loving mothers. As the discussion grew livelier, we found
ourselves chuckling at the energy being expended on something as ordinary as
a recipe for fish stew.
 But, slowly the old stone walls began to cast their spell. For centuries
they have absorbed the expressions of the secular and spiritual of the men
and women who have lived there. And now they expressed their wisdom back
upon us. While there were still places to go and things to see, and
lots of fast traffic and slow food ahead, for a time our focus turned inward
in a reflection on priorities. How easily we are sidetracked from the
truly important, seduced by what only seems so. In the end, what is
more important than nourishment in sustaining life? What is more important
than integrity in sustaining the spirit?
In spite of ubiquitous cell phones, CNN, faxes and the internet, and
certainly, an increasing perception of haste and stress in today’s Italy,
the centerpieces of Italian life remain family and friends and the sharing
of food and wine. Politics and wars require attention and have their
place, but there is always time to discuss and appreciate the real
priorities, such as the proper way to make fish stew.
 Italy is filled to bursting with famous and awe-inspiring monuments and
incredible artistic treasures. Sometimes the exquisite scenery literally
takes your breath away. The early October sky was a shade of blue we
thought only-invented by Michelangelo or Raphael. The sun bathed Tuscany
and Liguria in a golden glow. As always, we have returned from our trip
with hundreds of photos that attempt to capture “the Real Italy” But
we find that, again, their limited frames do not quite do the job. The
boundless Real Italy is to be found only through immersive-experience, in
her uniquely hospitable people and in that moment when you realize the
importance of making a good fish stew.
- Judy
and Larry Haase |
