Sabina Trip Notes

SABINA COUNTRYSCAPES

Over the last several years, we have made many visits to Sabina, the mountainous countryside about an hour from Rome.  Romans have made this area their secret retreat for centuries.  There are papal palaces, ancient churches and quiet mountain retreats scattered throughout the steep hillsides and river valleys. We have available a number of small farm estates or “podere”, ranging from simple to magnificent. “Podere” simply means farm, and should not be confused with the “agriturismo”, a government sponsored program to assist farms in converting to tourist use. Countryside farms, especially those just on the outskirts of sophisticated cities like Rome or Florence, allow the traveler to experience country living while enjoying the comforts of modern conveniences and easy access to city luxuries. Others, more remotely located, may offer peaceful vistas, simple lodgings and an opportunity to sample a way of life unchanged for centuries.

Spring is a wonderful time to visit the hills and valleys of Sabina, just an hour from the exuberance and congestion of Rome. The meadows are filled with red poppies and the roadsides and mountain lanes are lined with “la ginestra”, a brilliant yellow broom which covers much of Italy in the spring. The little mountain villages usually boast a trattoria, a grocery, a bar and perhaps a butcher shop, sometimes a post office, and lots of friendly faces. In the mornings, the villagers shop for their daily supplies and a coffee to accompany their pursuit of local gossip. Lunch time and early afternoon, the sidewalk seating outside the tiny bar or restaurant is full of neighbors from the surrounding countryside sharing more gossip, opinions and evaluations of this farm’s olive oil or that farmer’s last wine production, and a glass or two of wine. The rhythm of life here is smoother, more tranquil and quiet. There is time to admire Francesca’s new baby, inquire about Papa’s health, have a second cafè when a friend unexpectedly joins the group.

In summer, the hills turn green and gold as sunflowers, olives and grapes burst forth.   Cool mountain breezes, spectacular views, walking trails and ease of access to many villages with shops, good restaurants and transportation to Rome make this an ideal destination for a family or group seeking a relaxed and varied “Roman Holiday”, even in the peak summer months. Many of the tiny mountain villages celebrate with a feste during these months.  The younger generation, having left the ancestral home for more lucrative jobs in the city, now return for family reunions and summer holidays.  The feast day of the town’s patron saint often serves as the focus of an elaborate gathering with games, a special mass and procession and, of course, a wonderful feast of local dishes.

The fall season is marked by cooler weather and the harvests of grapes, olives and the bounty of the land.  Many traditional feste take place during this season and center on the porcini mushroom, the pig, the wine and olive oil.  Most of these village festivities are open to the public (donations for food advised).   In addition, the Sabine mountains offer a wonderful array of castles and monasteries to explore. Perhaps at no other time of the year is the art of Italian hospitality and love of good food more obvious.  Local shops feature bowls of new olive oil and a basket of hunk of bread for dipping.  Dried porcini in huge baskets at the door of a small grocery perfume the air.  The village square becomes a veritable supermarket with a porchetta (roast pig) vendor, a cheese shop on wheels and a wagon loaded with fresh vegetables.  Warm loaves of pane rusticana, slabs of focaccia drenched in olive oil, sweet bread filled with fruits, all fresh from the oven, are featured at the bakery.  And carafes of the new vino rosso grace the table at the café.  Truly, this is an invitation to experience the real italy.

A DAY IN CANTALUPO

One of the more picturesque villages in the Selci area is Cantalupo. It can be seen from Villa Vallerosa atop a distant mountain, across a verdant valley. Cantalupo boasts a bustling square, lined with shops and restaurants. On our way into the village, we stopped at Forno La Madia, a local bakery, where Luciana stocked up for a weekend arrival of guests at Vallerosa. The owner's wife and Luciana carried on a bewildering dialog in rapidly enunciated Italian while we were plied with samples of the creative and tasty breads and pastries, the hallmark of this popular spot., all found there way into our arms as we envisioned the wonderful meals to come. The staff and customers eagerly posed for pictures at the front door.

Once in the village square, still munching a thick slice of focaccia, we made the rounds of the local shops. My favorite was Josefina’s, where we each selected a “fallone”, a local specialty. In this day of “wraps”, we were astonished at this delicious Italian version, redolent with olive oil and local herbs

MONTASOLA

High in the Sabine mountains stands the medieval village of Montasola. From its piazza one enjoys majestic views in virtually every direction. The steep slopes below the village are covered with olive trees and small family gardens, wildflowers and dense woods. The ancient borgo with its narrow cobblestone lanes is home to some families whose ancestors settled here in the late seventeenth century. One of the more enterprising of these families has converted their lovely family home into four spacious apartments with separate entrances. From these residences one enjoys the conveniences of the small village, easy parking in the village square, a local bar, a trattoria, and a grocery store.