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Dinner at Vecchia Quercia

Under a magnificent ancient Roman oak, overlooking the Sabina countryside, the tables of La Vecchia Quercia are waiting.  Hearty hugs and welcoming grins are exchanged as we gather in anticipation.   Five years ago, Steve and Fleur were wed here in Sabina and have returned to celebrate.  Pino, the owner, greets each guest and indicates a long banquet table covered with snowy white cloth and sparkling glassware for our feast.  The abundance of the Sabina landscape beckons.

The feast begins.  Baskets of fresh country bread followed by trays of hot flat bread begin to fill the table.  Asti Spumante sparkles in each glass.  Latte freddo is found for Ally, the 4 year old.  Water and wine and conversation flow.

Trays of antipasti, for which Pino and his wife Anna are famous, arrive faster than we can pass them along.  Each new offering is met with, "What is that?"  and, "Oh, THIS is my favorite!" and, "Another one?"  Trays of marinated cheese appear, canellini beans in a dressing of fragrant olive oil, Roma tomatoes with a crust of toasted crumbs, herbs and olive oil, and baked fennel smothered in parmeggiano reggiano cheese.  There are platters of deep fried polpetti with a bit of mozzarella in the center of a delicious blend of meat and herbs, and plates of an incredible suppli, a deep fried ball of perfectly seasoned rice with a creamy center of mozzarella. 

Vino rosso de la casa sparkles like rubies matched by the golden-crisp cold bianco.

Pasta orders are taken and soon arrive.  The crespelle is unique and utterly delicious.  Filled with a common weed, the stinging nettle, it is an expression of the genius of Italian cuisine.  Elegant in its simplicity, it is composed of the fruit of the land: eggs, a bit of flour, fresh cream and the delicate taste of an often overlooked green that has been carefully and lovingly processed to reach its peak flavor.  Carbonara, in which each element - pasta, eggs, fresh grated cheese and pancetta - remain so perfectly balanced that the sum is far greater than the parts.  Pappardelle, rich egg-y noodles, so thin that you can see through them, are lightly knapped with a rich cingiale sauce.  Surely this was a happy pig!

Fresh fruit on ice is next and then, the highlight of the evening. A stunning and creative dolce is brought to the table.  At first, it looks like a casually composed plate of more fresh fruit and nuts.  But, as the tray passes, we realize that each fruit and nut has been carefully cleaned - only its the skin or shell remains.  The tasty fruit or nut has been made into a marvelous gelato and carefully returned to its shell!  Lemon, tangerine, peach, fig, chestnuts, walnuts, and some we do not recognize.  Each selection is like a small edible present, complete with wrapping.  Each mouthful is more delicious than the last and we are unable to resist the temptation to sample the other's selection. 

Finally, coffee and grappa round off the evening.  We stand around the table picking up our jackets and purses, contentedly reliving each bite, reviewing the conversation of the evening and glowing in the warmth of friendship and family.  Someone fetches Anna for a bow and a round of applause from her satiated fans.  She and Pino pose for a picture and warmly bid each guest a final goodbye.  

We have forgotten that we are eating in a pizzeria in a tiny village of which the rest of the world has never heard.  It almost seemed like home!  What more fitting celebration of the love between our friends? Congratulations - and thank-you.

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