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Memories of the 2002 Opera

This year we made our third pilgrimage to Verona, to join our good friend, Robert Schweitzer, and be part of the enthusiastic 80th   Arena Festival audience.  Traveling with Robert ensures first class accommodations, the best seats for every performance and the company of a delightful and knowledgeable host.  

After a hearty breakfast buffet at the hotel, we toured the city's treasured churches and historic buildings.  The performances start at dark, around 9 pm, so we decided on an afternoon nap followed by an early dinner at one of the outdoor cafes on Piazza Bra.  From our outdoor table we watched the crowds of people taking the daily stroll in the shadow of the ancient walls of the Arena.  Finally, we made our way to our front row seats, enjoyed a glass of champagne and waited for the magic to begin.

Conductor Daniel Oren, renowned for his Arena performances, described this place and this moment in a recent interview.  "And then finally Verona, which conquered me:  the beauty of the city, the splendor of the opera in the Arena, the thousands of spectators who listen…It is a unique place, the most important and intriguing place in the world for playing music in the open air….When an opera begins, it is as if a muse were descending on the Arena, on the artists, on the spectators.  (T)here are…parts of the opera that work magically, even without knowing why, as in no other opera house round the world."

As night falls, the stage of the Arena gradually fades away and we are drawn into the drama and tragedy of another time and place.  Suddenly, it is after midnight and the artists are taking their bows.  What an experience!  We are too keyed up to sleep so we joined Robert at a small restaurant nearby for a late snack and lots of conversation about the performance and the artists.  When we finally decided to call it a night, we knew that our favorite scenes would delight us again as they replay in our dreams.

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On our final morning in Verona, I took an early walk on Piazza Bra.  The street and cafes were nearly empty and part of the open area was filled with the larger than life scenery from last night's performance.  Where had the magic gone? Or had it?  As I turned my gaze to the Arena, whose stones have witnessed 2000 years of history, I was sure I could hear the music and voices of last night's spectacle and, behind them the footsteps of centuries past.  For the past is always present in the Real Italy, .