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Verona
One of the lesser-known gems of the North is the ancient city of Verona.
Centuries ago, like its elegant cousin, Florence, Verona was a powerful
and important Roman center. Over time Florence outshone its northern
cousin as the leading architects and artists were commissioned to change
its face so that little of its Roman origins now remain. Not so with
Verona where much of the original Roman city plan with its magnificent
Arena and beautiful piazzas survive and thrive. The Verona Arena is so
well preserved that it serves as the center of one of the most exciting opera
festivals in the world. There is,
of course, much more to Verona than its well-preserved Roman heritage.
Shakespeare popularized the city as the romantic stage for his star
crossed lovers, Romeo and Juliet. Her famous balcony can be visited on
Via Cappello. Today, lovers from all over the world as well as most of
the city's permanent residents flock to the gracious Piazza Bra, just
outside the Arena, each afternoon for the ritual "see and be
seen" passeggiata and to enjoy a coffee or apertif before the
evening's activities. Just a few blocks away, Piazza Erbe hosts a
colorful daily market. The statue in its center dates from Roman times
and serves to remind us that this piazza has been a market place for
nearly 2000 years.
Verona has many beautiful churches that can be explored. San Zeno
Maggiore is Verona's most famous church, worthy of a pilgrimage to see
the doors, which are decorated with 48 bronze panels dating from the
11th and 12th centuries depicting scenes of the Old and New Testaments,
and the miracles of San Zeno. The interior is highlighted by a
magnificent rose window dating from the 12th century, a vaulted crypt
containing the tomb of St. Zeno, and a beautiful high Renaissance
Nativity by Mantegna. The Duomo was begun in 1139 and contains a
magnificent painting, the Assumption, by Titian.
 San
Giovanni in Fonte was founded in the 700s and rebuilt following the
great earthquake of 1117. San Fermo is a Romano-Gothic church on two
levels. The lower, built by the Benedictines in the 1060s, is
Romanesque, whereas the upper, built by the Franciscans in the 1300s, is
Gothic. The upper church has a spectacular Gothic pulpit and a wonderful
sculpture of Christ Arisen, with the soldiers sleeping all around. San
Lorenzo's threshold is a side door under a 15th century portico. San
Procolo is Verona's earliest church (6th century). Archaeological
excavations under the floors have uncovered ancient burial grounds and
the surviving structures of the original building.  Best of all, Verona is home to dozens of good restaurants ranging from
bargain trattorie to first class establishments where you may catch a
glimpse of the rich and famous who attend the summer opera season or the
many festivals held here throughout the year. What better way to spend a
few days than exploring the Roman
streets, visiting the churches and Juliet's house, tasting a few of the
wines of the Veneto in the local restaurants along with some of the
wonderful cuisine, and close with a performance of a spectacular and
romantic tragedy, perhaps Aida. The Arena
di Verona opera season is a major musical phenomenon in Italy, and
throughout the musical world. World-famous stars perform in the Arena's
vast oval auditorium, which seats up to 20,000 opera lovers for each
performance. |
